Auralis + Zaida Adriana Goveo Balmaseda: knitwear accessories for Fall'12

Last Fall when I returned to NYC after my Euro-trip (the Mittelmoda competition, and the Ethical Fashion Show in Paris) I re-connected with my ex-boss, fellow puertorrican eco-designer, and friend Auralis Herrero Lugo; the designer behind Auralis (an eco-friendly label of exquisite clothes with an "Urban-Tropical" flair) .

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I interned with Auralis in the Fall of 2010 during my senior year of college, and helped with the preparation for the launch of her line during The Green Shows. It was an amazing experience, and I felt very connected to her vision and her line. It was super heartwarming to work with/for someone who comes from my beautiful little island but is out here trying to make a difference. 

Every time I went to the studio it felt a bit like going back  home... and thats how I became part of  her eco-venture. We've kept in touch ever since, and she's been incredibly supportive of my creative endeavors... given me advice and even wrote an article about the work I exhibited at the MMXIproject on Elpuntoes!

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Anyhow, when we re-connected last September, she told me she was experimenting with natural-dyes at her studio. Since I was very interested in learning more,  I offered to go help her out+learn  for a few days. From that a knitwear collaboration was born. 

Auralis wanted to include a knitwear element in her collection and I got really excited about developing some samples for her. Its the first time I collaborated with someone else and made accessories. It was a challenge, but definitely learned a lot and the pictures look amazing!

3+ months and MANY samples later (we tried various hat, scarf and headband shapes)  we ended up with a turban/headpiece called "chacón headband" and the "iris scarf" all in reference to Iris Chacón. “Iris Chacón was a character I grew up watching in Puerto Rico. She had a variety show in the island for over 12 years. She was a fashion and beauty inspiration to all Puerto Rican women of my generation” 

 "For autumn 2012 Auralís collaborated with fellow sustainable designer, Zaida Adriana Goveo-Balmaseda. The collaboration includes a scarf and a turban, knitted using a blend of organic merino, baby alpaca and silk yarn; luxurious on the skin and beautiful on the eye. All yarns were also dyed naturally at the studio."

 

*pics from Auralis' blog

"In Auralis’s vision Iris Chacón travels from Puerto Rico to Scotland via New York wearing the Autumn 2012 Auralis collection; she leaves all the men in kilts speechless. This Urban Tropical takes her city chic attitude combined with her Caribbean flair everywhere she goes."

The Knitwear accessories I created with/for Auralis which were just shown at MINTfair in Amsterdam and at CAPSULE NYC during their respective FashionWeeks and will also hopefully be up for sale online through Auralis' e-shop.

"Auralís just showed the collection at Amsterdam’s MINT Modefabriek and in Europe for the first time with Origin 23 Showroom, “MINT is a driving force for the eco fashion world which is where the future of fashion lies”. – Eileen Moran, who started Origin 23, brings together talented eco designers and gives their collections a home."*

*from Auralis' Fall 12' press release. 

I'm posting my favorite pictures from her Fall '12 collection below (and some process/behind the scenes pics as always)PLUS a wonderful video by Emerald Gold/Omar King. You can see more looks in her lookbook.

So much talent on that photoshoot! 

Auralís Herrero Lugo for Auralís
Jewelry - Luiny Rivera Gelpi
Talent - Laura Wilson, Collin Tanner
Director - Mónica Félix
Shot/Chop - Omar King
Makeup - Karlo Beau
Hair - George Ortiz
PA - Mayumi Yamada
PA - Jenny Macgregor Dennis
Mario Sweet "Mario" 

new chapter + UPDATES!

Returning to New York has been -as always- a bit strange. 

In the past few years I've been spending some time in Europe, and the more time I spend there, the more It becomes a 3rd home (Puerto Rico my first, NYC my second, and Europe-mostly Italy- my third).

It is always bittersweet, as many of the great opportunities I've been given as an emerging designer have come from initiatives happening in the OLD CONTINENT:

Last year Mittelmoda in Italy, and The Ethical Fashion Show in Paris, and this year The Green Fashion Competition during Amsterdam Fashion Week. Not to mention our latest feature on Mellina+Co's spring look-book which we shot in Florence last month.

I have this never-ending argument with myself, as after graduation I didn't imagine myself being here in NY. I was/am relentlessly searching for opportunities abroad... and every time I go, I want to stay; but this time it was very, very different. 

I realized that although the European mindset is one that I appreciate, and that I admire their respect they have for a lot of things  (like arts+crafts/ personal+family time/quality of life/social programs)... it will take me twice as long to get things done there, to promote my in-the-works brand, and to excel. The fastness of this city is both what I love and hate, its what makes me want to be here and what makes me want to run away.

HOWEVER...Now that I've started building my company,  I think will be here for a bit longer and take advantage of the wonderfully supportive design community I'm part of, the endless and accessible resources and the flexible/versatile/varied- yet intense lifestyle you can have here. If I get tired a few months/years down the line I can always run to my other/adoptive homes in Europe or Puerto Rico for a bit (or a while)...

Anyway, following will be a set of blogposts updating you about the articles where my work has been mentioned, what I've been concocting lately and the very-exciting collaborations we've been a part of.  

Hope you enjoy reading:

xo 

zaida adriana

• The Knitwear Accessories I created with/for Auralis which were at MINTfair in Amsterdam and at CAPSULE NYC during their respective FashionWeeks
•  Zaida Adriana Goveo Balmaseda featured in Mellina+Co's Spring '12 lookbook
• My MANIFESTO_of creativemoulding+criticalweathering collection shot by Michael Butterfin + model Mallory Matoush for MUUSE
•  The KNITTING PARTY at Rosa Ng's (from Quality Control)
•  The photoshoot we just had for VNB Magazine's April issue where our clothes will be featured!!!
• The launch of my collection on MUUSE.com on March 7th!

The Green Fashion Competition: RUNWAY

Marijn, Mirte, Sagal runway ready! photo x Marco Turini

I am so excited to finally share with you the FINISHED product of what I've been working so hard on for the past 3+months!

 As you may know, I was chosen as one of 4 finalists for category 2 (young designers) of The Green Fashion Competition. There were 3 rounds of the competition and I am still so honored to have gotten all the way to the last one... and to have the amazing opportunity to show my collection [3looks] at the Grand Finale which took place this past Friday, Jan 27th, during Amsterdam Fashion Week!

TGFC has really been one of the greatest learning experiences. Although I did not win [the €15,000]:

• I had the chance to meet wonderful people [other young designers (like Carrie Parry, Narelle Dore, and OhMyBag), visionary makeup/hair artists, the incredibly helpful and encouraging AFW/TGFC staff (Martin van der Werff and Holly Syrett), the amazing choreographer Max Hitipeu, super fun video wizards Cezanne Noordhoek and Bas, my fantastic models who cared for the show just as much as I did (Marijn, Mirte and Sagal), and catching up with the wonderful Irene from EcoBloggerNL (who has been supporting us since the beginning of the competition)]
• Entering and being chosen for this competition gave me a lot of confidence. It allowed me to focus on taking my work/art to the next level, to think about how I can really have an impact on the things I care about by being more just an artist/designer...and being a young entrepreneur. I had to write a business plan, which forced me to really think about where I am right now,  where I want to go, and what I want to do with my work... It was a real challenge, and to be honest, I did not think I was ready for it/or good enough; BUT, this opportunity knocked on my door 3 times (first I was just surfing the web and bumped into it, then Sass Brown suggested I checked it out, and lastly- Holly Syrett, the project manager- saw my garments at the Ethical Fashion Show in Paris and reached out to me encouraging me to consider it), and I JUST felt it was RIGHT to take it!
• After the show, I was able to relax and catch up a bit with myself! I've received wonderful feedback and am so blown away by everyones support. Not to mention a the great honor of a beautifully written Eco Fashion Designer Overview on Sass Brown's website Eco Fashion Talk which was reposted by the Ethical Fashion Forum, another feature on Abigail Doan's Ecco*Eco ! and there are some other little projects sprouting like tomorrow's photoshoot collaboration with FIT in Florence friend Mellina+Co

I just have no words to express how grateful and happy I am right now... so I will just stop talking, and let you enjoy!

I would LOVE to have your comments/feedback!

p.s.: Photo credits to Peter Steigter

THE SHOW IS ON!

MARIJN opens the show!!! wearing the ALVEOLO_tunic/top (as top) [from deadstock wool.felted and embroidered, dyed with annatto, curry and turmeric] and TAFONI_cape/skirt (as skirt)[organic cotton  sateen(grown and woven in USA) naturally dyed and free-motion quilted with recycled PET batting+ COMPLETELY REVERSIBLE]

 

ALVEOLO_tunic/top closeup

TAFONI_cape/skirt detail + handspun scraps yarn as bracelet

MIRTE goes 2nd!... wearing our TAFONI_pants+TAFONI_jacket[organic cotton  sateen (grown and woven in USA) naturally dyed and free-motion quilted with recycled PET batting+COMPLETELY REVERSIBLE] and CEMENTATION_top[handknit from hand-spun recycled textile scraps from NYC, and LB®Undyed Organic Cotton Yarn. this top can be work upside down too!]

 TAFONI_jacket+CEMENTATION_top closeup

 TAFONI_pants closeup

SAGAL wears our 3rd and last look!...  our CEMENTATION_"dress"[handknit from hand-spun recycled textile scraps from NYC, and LB®Undyed Organic Cotton Yarn] I say "dress" because this one is transformable and can be worn a million ways! Here she is wearing THE WHOLE THING... This showpiece was knit from ~5.5lbs of fabric scraps. Good thing they did not end up in a landfill!

CEMENTATION_"dress" closeup!

 CEMENTATION_"dress" EVEN CLOSER

SURPRISE! MIRTE/SAGAL rocking it... transformation on the way!

CEMENTATION_"dress" turned into a sexy little number with a HOOD! SAGAL looked so HOT!

SAGAL, MIRTE +MARIJN walking their wonders!

SAGAL + CEMENTATION_dress closeup!

MIRTE takes TAFONI_jacket off + shows us it is reversible... PLUS we see how sexy the CEMENTATION_top can be! oooh the "cutouts"!

and... MARIN wears the bottom panel of CEMENTATION_dress that SAGAL was wearing AS A SCARF!

ALL IN FRONT of +150 people including Princess Maxima of the Neatherlands!

LOVE IT LOVE IT LOVE IT!

THANKS TO everyone that made this adventure ECO_FABULOUS!

mama.mimi.abuelo.ileana.omar.don.tiojorge.dorian.alida.brandon.jessica.daniela.leonardo.

wendy.sohee.mannyrico.auralis.tara.daniel.sassbrown.abigaildoan.owyn+textileartscenter.alina.pabloshablo.

hannaeke.borreakkersdijk.marcoturini.mariannagiustino.chunweiliau.samuelmoore.cristinalopez.peoplefromNHEC+++

andeveryoneELSEwhohasbeentherewithmesinceday1!

none of this would be possible without you

recap: TGFC/AFW backstage

first things first, UNLOAD and organize. which shoes for which model?

recap: TheGreenFashionCompetition/AmsterdamFashionWeek 

BACKSTAGE

a collaborative 

photo/reportage

by 

MarcoTurini+ZaidaAdrianaGoveoBalmaseda

early on, starting to adjust the knit dress

 

January 27th, THE BIG DAY! 

At 11:00am (running on 3 hrs of sleep) I walked into the backstage area of the AFW location at Westergasfabriek with my huge PINK suitcase full of goodies. 

Marco Turini decided to be my official backstage photographer and with a little bit of luck he was able to start documenting early in the day. 

I was also extremely blessed have my dear friend and amazing KNITTER Sohee Bae be my "backstage assistant" and "dresser". This girl works her wonders, and really loves me! She stayed and helped me with everything regardless of her upset tummy. 

After unpacking, we put everything on the racks, did one last fitting with each model and then steamed the clothes. 

Usually backstage(s) are super hectic, with tight schedules and full of very stressed people. Surprisingly this one was VERY different. Everything was super organized, the models were all on time and ready to work, there were plenty steamers and irons+boards, and the hair and makeup team was very enthusiastic. I knew things were taken care of and that allowed me to "relax" a bit and focus on the finishing touches! 

Thank you Martin van der Werff, Holly Syrrett and all of the AFW/TGFC staff.

I LOVE MIRTE! this is pre-hair/makeup MAGIC

this is NOT what it looks like. I was probably just making another funny face!

After we fit the models and sent them off to hair and makeup, Sohee and I stayed by our "rack" doing some last minute edits. We only had to do two things: add snaps to the bottom panel of the knit dress, and mattress stitch some ankle knit cuffs.

Little did I know that putting those snaps on was going to take me MOST OF THE DAY!

all of these faces in less than 30 seconds. uugh, backstages are INTENSE. in the end we are always happy though!

 

At ~1:00pm Mr. Max Hitipew, the amazing choreographer, came to meet with each designer and call us for a rehearsal! This man is full of positivity and encouragement and does an amazing job!

zaida.sohee.max: reviewing the looks/schedule

The rehearsal went great, and when I came back it was time to WRAP THINGS UP.

I was so happy to be done with ALL those snaps!!!

so rewarding to see my collection ready. note the ditto® hangers

marco was slightly obsessed with shoepictures. he took like 5. this one was my favorite

we met some really nice people.  the backstage photographer taking pics of me. not used to this.

  Then we went on to check on Hair+Makeup (Haar+Make-up)!

Hair was done by View Agency. I met with them and we discussed ideas, but the "creative director" asked to see some of my pieces. When I showed him, he immediately thought of something and asked if I had anymore of my hand-spun scraps yarn. Of course, I brought EVERYTHING with me just in case, and handed him a whole "roll". What they came up with was impressive, but was most touching was that in our discussion, the director said "this is in honor of the meticulous work you've done". 

He said he wished he could meet designers 3 months in advance to really get to know them and understand what is behind their work -in order to create together-. 

Makeup was done by House of Orange. There was chemistry here too. When I met with the "head person" she pulled out my "mood/concept boards" and immediately knew what I wanted. COLOR was ON!

It was wonderful to have these experts/artists helping us communicate our vision to the public!

                                        

MIRTE getting her face prepped!

SAGAL getting her makeup finished!

hairdetail. they sewed the yarn onto their hair

                  

hair DONE, makeup DONE. sagal+mirte posing!

 

I LOVE THESE GIRLS! Wonderful spirits!

Mirte, Sagal and Marijn were just the BEST models. They were cheerful, helpful, hardworking and super encouraging. They made this experience a million times better. They LOVED the pieces, fit them great and wanted me to have a great show and be happy. THANK YOU LADIES!

TIME TO GET DRESSED/GENERAL REHEARSALS/then... THE SHOW!

general rehearsal. marijin opens!

discussing the choreography, trying to get things right!

Marijn, Mirte, Sagal pose for  Marco. (from left to right)

Marijn, Mirte, Sagal pose for  Marco. (from left to right)

ITS SHOWTIME!

this is a LOT of press

two of my looks on the runway

photo credits to MARCO TURINI on this post PLEASE!!!

THANK YOU EVERYONE for such a MAGICAL experience!

I had lots of little angels helping me until the last minute and sharing this journey with all of you just makes it a MILLION times more special!

The show looked super professional, and I felt super empowered by having your all your support! THIS IS JUST THE BEGINNING!

The next post will be dedicated to the RUNWAY pictures of finished and polished images. I just wanted to share what happens BEHIND the scenes, as the ride should be just as meaningful as the destination!